Sewing tutorial: How to sew a jacket without lining?

Sewing tutorial for unlined jacket

Hello !

Welcome to this new video about our favourite coat of the season, the Pamcoat with its pretty shawl collar, its large flap pockets and its loose fit. So let's take the same and start again... A new version!

Sewing the lining of a coat or jacket is not essential to make a nice first mid-season piece, especially if the back of your fabric is as nice as the front (like our lovely Scott tweed ;) ).

In the previous "Sewing Secrets" tutorial we detailed how to join a checked fabric, so your fabric pieces are ready for this next step. To prevent the fabric from fraying, all the pieces will have been overcast and the specified areas ironed on with iron-on tape (bottom of the garment, bottom of the sleeves, facing and back panel, under the collar).

This video will show you how to assemble your garment without sewing the lining of the coat. In order to have a coat that looks as good on the outside as it does on the inside, we are going to tape the seams: these are finishes with a bias tape that covers the seam allowances. 

Laying a bias ensures a clean finish, even decorative if you choose a contrasting bias. Bias is applied before assembling your pattern pieces, and we tape it in place:

  • The sides and shoulders of the front and back pieces
  • The sides of the sleeve pieces and the bottom of the sleeve
  • The turn of the cladding

The quantities of bias needed for the coat Pam short and long version, as well as the tutorial to lay a bias are shown directly in the video.

For my coat, I chose not to tape the seams of the sleeve head and the bottom of the garment as the tweed is thick and I didn't want to risk stiffening my seams in these areas. So the seam allowances will simply be overcast. Depending on your choice of fabric, all the seams can be gimped (velvet, light denim, gabardine, fine wool).

In short (above the knee), Pam has a very different look and with its pretty checks it changes from my other versions! I've trimmed my seams with a black bias, which contrasts without shocking (the beige, navy, brown and black combination is really elegant). The bias will be visible at the bottom of the sleeves and as I always wear them rolled up, the inside of the sleeves is also visible (the "couture" touch!). The bottom hem is made with a hand stitched invisible stitch and the facing is also stabilised by hand stitching, as well as the back panel which is understitched with the seam allowance of the under collar (I promised you neat finishing touches, didn't I?!).

I embellished my coat with pearlescent gold-rimmed buttons from Rascol, real jewels! I really like my new coat, and I don't regret taking the time to take care of my fittings and finishing touches.

And if you want to take the plunge, you can find a step-by-step video on how to sew your coat with a lining (of course your sewing pattern includes all the lining pieces and the assembly of the lining with the garment, all these technical points are detailed in the brochure and the video tutorial of the coat Pam)

I hope you have a great time sewing and that the sewing techniques in this tutorial will be useful for many sewing projects! We are very happy with Julie to see all your comments under the YouTube videos and to find you for these moments of shared sewing. Our goal is to accompany you in your projects, to help you progress and to dare to try new techniques, video after video. Sewing remains a technical discipline but I am convinced that you will progress very quickly and that the pleasure of making your wardrobe, whether it is a pretty everyday blouse or a very well constructed coat, is even greater when you have also learned new things.

Beautiful day!


1 comment

Great tutorial, thank you very much

Helene February 07, 2023

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