29 November 2017
Rocaille, what if it's a dress?!
hello I'm here today to offer you the tutorial for editing your blouse Rocaille. I took advantage of this step by step realization to sew a dress version of my last one (and already a nice story is being made between us....). 
Rocaille presenting the possibility to choose between 2 types of bottom flaps in front, there will be the 2 possibilities illustrated and thus 2 fabric models (so don't be surprised, crazy patterns did not get in by chance ;) ). The printed fabric you can see in the boss's article of introduction comes from Aniline's house. 
This dress version is like an evidence, so simple to implement and for a result that I like very much. I sewed my dress in a very very light woollen fabric that is extremely pleasant to wear (it comes from a small haberdashery near my home). The marron glacé colour is not easy to restore, but the tight weave on the spot brings a very beautiful shimmer (if my dress shimmers!). I chose small gold faceted buttons from Pretty mercerie, and I did the stitching on the hem of my bottom flaps and gold thread (it's a serious bling here). I wear it loose or belted. 
To give a little pep to my outfit I chose my pretty cobalt tassel buckles and my girlfriend's love necklace. Ilabella. I hope that this tuto will dedramatize the realization of your blouse Rocaille, and that this new version will inspire you again a pretty declension around my new boss. Zou it's time to work, here is THE STEP TO STEP FROM ROCAILLE: for the dress version I simply lengthened by 30 cm from the side line (and you join perpendicularly the middle front and middle back). 
1.Sew the chest clips: transfer your clip layout using a craie or an erasable pen, superimpose your notches right side up against each other to bend and create your clip and sew along the layout. On the tip of the clamp end with ¾ points on your line so as not to mark your clamp too much and make your seam "die". 
2. the neckline slit: clean up your room. Position your cleanliness (which you will have taken the care to iron) place against place on your bust in front, and sew along the line of the slit (at the bottom of the slit, needle planted lift the foot and rotate your work 90 degrees sew on 2/3 stitches, turn 90 degrees and go up). Cut between your sewing lines, turn your cleanliness to flatten it inside and iron. 
3. front flap : VERSION A : Surf on the bottom of your facing. Place your previously heat-sealed siding on the bottom of your sash, right side up against each other and assemble. Clip your rounded edges, and turn your siding inside out, iron it well (if you wish, stitch on the right side along the bottom of the bottom shutter, this will stabilise your siding and may be decorative). Make the buttonhole. Attach your bottom flap to your bust in front of the BACK against LEFT by a seam in the seam allowance. 
VERSION B: make the hem at the bottom of your bib B pieces, place your bibs upside down on the right side of the front bust, and secure with a seam inside the seam allowance. 
4. Hem your back bib. Sew your back clip: stitch along the marker, then stop your seam, the rest of the fold is free. Iron to form your crease. Put your back bib BACK against BACK BUSTLE LOCK, and sew in the seam allowance to secure your pieces together. 
Assemble your front and back bust right sides together by the shoulders and sides. Surf and iron well. 
6. the collar: glue your collar pieces together, assemble them right side against right side, leaving the bottom of the collar open. Clip the rounded edges, clear your corners and turn your collar right side up. 
Position your collar edge to edge and right side to right on your neckline, using the mounting notches, and stitch. The right portion will be slightly out of the way (it will support the button) and the left portion will be flush with the neckline. Turn your collar inside out, and tuck your seam margins inside the collar, then pin the collar all the way around to sandwich your neckline in your collar with the seam margins evenly tucked and plated. This second assembly seam will be on the right side and the outside of your collar, so take good care of your work. Make the buttonhole. 
7. the sleeves: close your sleeves and thread all along your seam. If you wish to add the shoulder tab: make your tab by assembling 2 pieces right sides together, notch your rounded edges and turn it right side up with a bias flip. Make the buttonhole and for a prettier finish, topstitch your piece. 
When assembling your sleeve you insert your tab between the sleeve and the armhole at shoulder level. The pattern of the tab being the same for all sizes, fix it with pins at the desired location, you will eliminate the excess length after assembling the sleeve. Mount your sleeve on your armhole, right side up (you slide your sleeve into the armhole and pin through the armhole "hole" and matching the underarm seams, the sleeve head notch with the shoulder seam, and your front and back notches. Once you have pinned these stitches, you pin all the way round, absorbing a little of the embu (if necessary, you can pucker your sleeve head a little with a pucker thread before pinning to make it easier to manage the embu). 
8. the finishing touches: make the bottom hem of the sleeves and at the bottom of your blouse. Choose and sew your most beautiful buttons.... then, life is not so good! See you soon for my CSF article (yes I know I'm late....) 
Rocaille presenting the possibility to choose between 2 types of bottom flaps in front, there will be the 2 possibilities illustrated and thus 2 fabric models (so don't be surprised, crazy patterns did not get in by chance ;) ). The printed fabric you can see in the boss's article of introduction comes from Aniline's house. This dress version is like an evidence, so simple to implement and for a result that I like very much. I sewed my dress in a very very light woollen fabric that is extremely pleasant to wear (it comes from a small haberdashery near my home). The marron glacé colour is not easy to restore, but the tight weave on the spot brings a very beautiful shimmer (if my dress shimmers!). I chose small gold faceted buttons from Pretty mercerie, and I did the stitching on the hem of my bottom flaps and gold thread (it's a serious bling here). I wear it loose or belted. To give a little pep to my outfit I chose my pretty cobalt tassel buckles and my girlfriend's love necklace. Ilabella. I hope that this tuto will dedramatize the realization of your blouse Rocaille, and that this new version will inspire you again a pretty declension around my new boss. Zou it's time to work, here is THE STEP TO STEP FROM ROCAILLE: for the dress version I simply lengthened by 30 cm from the side line (and you join perpendicularly the middle front and middle back). 1.Sew the chest clips: transfer your clip layout using a craie or an erasable pen, superimpose your notches right side up against each other to bend and create your clip and sew along the layout. On the tip of the clamp end with ¾ points on your line so as not to mark your clamp too much and make your seam "die". 2. the neckline slit: clean up your room. Position your cleanliness (which you will have taken the care to iron) place against place on your bust in front, and sew along the line of the slit (at the bottom of the slit, needle planted lift the foot and rotate your work 90 degrees sew on 2/3 stitches, turn 90 degrees and go up). Cut between your sewing lines, turn your cleanliness to flatten it inside and iron. 3. front flap : VERSION A : Surf on the bottom of your facing. Place your previously heat-sealed siding on the bottom of your sash, right side up against each other and assemble. Clip your rounded edges, and turn your siding inside out, iron it well (if you wish, stitch on the right side along the bottom of the bottom shutter, this will stabilise your siding and may be decorative). Make the buttonhole. Attach your bottom flap to your bust in front of the BACK against LEFT by a seam in the seam allowance. VERSION B: make the hem at the bottom of your bib B pieces, place your bibs upside down on the right side of the front bust, and secure with a seam inside the seam allowance. 4. Hem your back bib. Sew your back clip: stitch along the marker, then stop your seam, the rest of the fold is free. Iron to form your crease. Put your back bib BACK against BACK BUSTLE LOCK, and sew in the seam allowance to secure your pieces together. Assemble your front and back bust right sides together by the shoulders and sides. Surf and iron well. 6. the collar: glue your collar pieces together, assemble them right side against right side, leaving the bottom of the collar open. Clip the rounded edges, clear your corners and turn your collar right side up. Position your collar edge to edge and right side to right on your neckline, using the mounting notches, and stitch. The right portion will be slightly out of the way (it will support the button) and the left portion will be flush with the neckline. Turn your collar inside out, and tuck your seam margins inside the collar, then pin the collar all the way around to sandwich your neckline in your collar with the seam margins evenly tucked and plated. This second assembly seam will be on the right side and the outside of your collar, so take good care of your work. Make the buttonhole. 7. the sleeves: close your sleeves and thread all along your seam. If you wish to add the shoulder tab: make your tab by assembling 2 pieces right sides together, notch your rounded edges and turn it right side up with a bias flip. Make the buttonhole and for a prettier finish, topstitch your piece. When assembling your sleeve you insert your tab between the sleeve and the armhole at shoulder level. The pattern of the tab being the same for all sizes, fix it with pins at the desired location, you will eliminate the excess length after assembling the sleeve. Mount your sleeve on your armhole, right side up (you slide your sleeve into the armhole and pin through the armhole "hole" and matching the underarm seams, the sleeve head notch with the shoulder seam, and your front and back notches. Once you have pinned these stitches, you pin all the way round, absorbing a little of the embu (if necessary, you can pucker your sleeve head a little with a pucker thread before pinning to make it easier to manage the embu). 8. the finishing touches: make the bottom hem of the sleeves and at the bottom of your blouse. Choose and sew your most beautiful buttons.... then, life is not so good! See you soon for my CSF article (yes I know I'm late....)
