October 10, 2017
Dress Craie le tuto!
hello! I present you with a brand new version of my dress Craie...the latest in the new collection. I chose to sew it in a fabric that rhymes with cold season, flannel. This fabric comes from Printstandand it's a surprise that Athenian made me...a big thank you because I love very much!!!! 
The polka dot pattern is very trendy, the fit of the fabric is perfect for the model and above all it is soft and can be worn with pleasure on the skin (because here it is still warm to go out in tights). This model can be worn as it is for a very comfortable trapeze shape, but you can also belt your dress (its length and the position of the pockets lend themselves well to it). 
I've already explained to you here the genesis of this model, and the heart-shaped neckline is really very appropriate when it comes to showcasing beautiful jewelry (you will recognize here the wonders of my girlfriend IlabellaI haven't left my necklace since I got it and worn it short it's also absolutely hot! And these earrings...I'm a fan that you want). 
Let's go with the tutorial on how to assemble your dress: 1) Make your chest darts on your front fabric (and if necessary lining).. First, transfer your pliers from your pattern to your fabric by marking the sides of the pliers with notches and run a thread over the tip of the pliers to mark their location. Join the top of the pliers and the notches with a pilot frixion marker or a craie tailor's marker (this forms a triangle). Fold the notches of the clamp one on top of the other in a right-angled position, stitch on your trace line and when you reach the tip of the clamp you continue to sew in the void on several points. Press your pliers down. Repeat the operation with the lining if you have not chosen the facing option. 
2) Assemble your front and back pieces of fabric by the shoulders, positioning them right sides together. You do the same with the lining or facing pieces front and back. You will note that for a better hold of the neckline I put a strip of iron-on tape on the edge of the neckline of my siding. Open the shoulder seams with iron. 
Come and superimpose your fabric and lining or facing pieces right against right, and pin all along the neckline only (assemble all around the neckline).
To help you stitch the tip of the décolleté, transfer your seam line and the middle of your bust, and follow your line well. When you're a few stitches away from the "V" shorten your stitch length so that you land on your centre line. At this point, keep the needle in place, lift your foot and pivot your work to continue along the line. Clip the tip of your cuts and all your roundings and you will reduce your seam margins. Turn your work right side out. 
Iron your work well so that your front and back necklines are well defined. You will get your dress with the lining area that will be against your body and the fabric area that will be visible. Pockets: position your pocket bottom on the front part of the dress with the front side against the back side and assemble. Unfold the pocket and iron well. Do the same on each side of the dress in front AND back. 
Side assemblyPin right sides together your pieces of fabric on the front and back with the sides facing down and sew around the pockets (you stop the seam at the top of the pocket, and with a flatbed needle you lift up the foot of your machine and pivot your work to sew around the pocket, at the bottom of the pocket pivot again and finish your seam at the bottom of your dress). Repeat the operation for the lining pieces without of course the pocket step. For the lining sew the front and back sides right sides together. Clean-finish the edges of your seams and press the seam allowance towards the back with an iron. 
If you have chosen the facing option, scroll over the entire bottom and sides of your facing. Your garment will now look like a sleeveless dress with lining, fabric and lining joined together at the neckline. The sleeves: After marking the mark of your future slot, make a reinforcement stitch along it, and cut between your reinforcement seams. 
From the right side of the sleeve, pin your bias strip right sides together along your reinforcing seam, and open your slit wide to pin along the entire length. Stitch. 
Flip your bias strip over, and fold it x2 to get your border folded inside out. Use the iron to shape and flatten your folded bias as well as possible. Pin and sew. Be careful your bias strip must perfectly cover your1st assembly seam. 
The end of your slit therefore has the fold of the bias: come and reinforce this area with a double stitch at 45 degrees. 
You can close your sleeve by sewing the side seam right sides together. Finish. 
With the help of a pucker wire you're going to be puckering up your entire sleeve bottom.... To do this: release the thread tension on your machine, lengthen your stitch, and change your bobbin thread for a contrasting thread. Stitch in the seam allowance and leave some thread length before cutting. Pulling on the bobbin thread will result in gathers. The gathers will be distributed during assembly with the wrist, using the wrist markings on the wrist. 
Realization of the wrist : Heat seal your wrist. Bend place against place according to your bend line and press firmly with an iron. Pin the ends of your wrists and sew at 1 cm. Uncover your corners and turn your wrist over, iron well. 
Wrist assembly Pin your wrist place against place on your sleeve (the wrist notch goes on the front portion of the tear-proof slot so that this zone is overhanging): your piece has notches to help you position it: your buttoning tab goes beyond your sleeve (the longest portion will be the one that will support your buttonhole, so it is positioned above the continuous zone of your wrist slot when you close). Pin well and sew then turn your wrist over. Fold your seam allowance inside your wrist, and fix it with a seam that will be visible along your wrist. 
Make your buttonholes and sew your buttons. You're going to come up your sleeve on your garment by pinning right side against right side (use your mounting notches, 2 front 1 on the back, and 1 notch for the sleeve head which responds to the shoulder seam). You will have 3 layers: facing, body fabric and sleeve. 
The finishes: Sew the hem of the bottom of your dress by making an invisible hem by hand or with your sewing machine. If you have chosen to sew a lining, make a hem that allows your lining to be a little shorter, this will prevent it from sticking out and showing. Congratulations, you can put on your dress Craie, button up your cuffs, and above all, enjoy! 
The polka dot pattern is very trendy, the fit of the fabric is perfect for the model and above all it is soft and can be worn with pleasure on the skin (because here it is still warm to go out in tights). This model can be worn as it is for a very comfortable trapeze shape, but you can also belt your dress (its length and the position of the pockets lend themselves well to it). I've already explained to you here the genesis of this model, and the heart-shaped neckline is really very appropriate when it comes to showcasing beautiful jewelry (you will recognize here the wonders of my girlfriend IlabellaI haven't left my necklace since I got it and worn it short it's also absolutely hot! And these earrings...I'm a fan that you want). Let's go with the tutorial on how to assemble your dress: 1) Make your chest darts on your front fabric (and if necessary lining).. First, transfer your pliers from your pattern to your fabric by marking the sides of the pliers with notches and run a thread over the tip of the pliers to mark their location. Join the top of the pliers and the notches with a pilot frixion marker or a craie tailor's marker (this forms a triangle). Fold the notches of the clamp one on top of the other in a right-angled position, stitch on your trace line and when you reach the tip of the clamp you continue to sew in the void on several points. Press your pliers down. Repeat the operation with the lining if you have not chosen the facing option. 2) Assemble your front and back pieces of fabric by the shoulders, positioning them right sides together. You do the same with the lining or facing pieces front and back. You will note that for a better hold of the neckline I put a strip of iron-on tape on the edge of the neckline of my siding. Open the shoulder seams with iron. Come and superimpose your fabric and lining or facing pieces right against right, and pin all along the neckline only (assemble all around the neckline). To help you stitch the tip of the décolleté, transfer your seam line and the middle of your bust, and follow your line well. When you're a few stitches away from the "V" shorten your stitch length so that you land on your centre line. At this point, keep the needle in place, lift your foot and pivot your work to continue along the line. Clip the tip of your cuts and all your roundings and you will reduce your seam margins. Turn your work right side out. Iron your work well so that your front and back necklines are well defined. You will get your dress with the lining area that will be against your body and the fabric area that will be visible. Pockets: position your pocket bottom on the front part of the dress with the front side against the back side and assemble. Unfold the pocket and iron well. Do the same on each side of the dress in front AND back. Side assemblyPin right sides together your pieces of fabric on the front and back with the sides facing down and sew around the pockets (you stop the seam at the top of the pocket, and with a flatbed needle you lift up the foot of your machine and pivot your work to sew around the pocket, at the bottom of the pocket pivot again and finish your seam at the bottom of your dress). Repeat the operation for the lining pieces without of course the pocket step. For the lining sew the front and back sides right sides together. Clean-finish the edges of your seams and press the seam allowance towards the back with an iron. If you have chosen the facing option, scroll over the entire bottom and sides of your facing. Your garment will now look like a sleeveless dress with lining, fabric and lining joined together at the neckline. The sleeves: After marking the mark of your future slot, make a reinforcement stitch along it, and cut between your reinforcement seams. From the right side of the sleeve, pin your bias strip right sides together along your reinforcing seam, and open your slit wide to pin along the entire length. Stitch. Flip your bias strip over, and fold it x2 to get your border folded inside out. Use the iron to shape and flatten your folded bias as well as possible. Pin and sew. Be careful your bias strip must perfectly cover your1st assembly seam. The end of your slit therefore has the fold of the bias: come and reinforce this area with a double stitch at 45 degrees. You can close your sleeve by sewing the side seam right sides together. Finish. With the help of a pucker wire you're going to be puckering up your entire sleeve bottom.... To do this: release the thread tension on your machine, lengthen your stitch, and change your bobbin thread for a contrasting thread. Stitch in the seam allowance and leave some thread length before cutting. Pulling on the bobbin thread will result in gathers. The gathers will be distributed during assembly with the wrist, using the wrist markings on the wrist. Realization of the wrist : Heat seal your wrist. Bend place against place according to your bend line and press firmly with an iron. Pin the ends of your wrists and sew at 1 cm. Uncover your corners and turn your wrist over, iron well. Wrist assembly Pin your wrist place against place on your sleeve (the wrist notch goes on the front portion of the tear-proof slot so that this zone is overhanging): your piece has notches to help you position it: your buttoning tab goes beyond your sleeve (the longest portion will be the one that will support your buttonhole, so it is positioned above the continuous zone of your wrist slot when you close). Pin well and sew then turn your wrist over. Fold your seam allowance inside your wrist, and fix it with a seam that will be visible along your wrist. Make your buttonholes and sew your buttons. You're going to come up your sleeve on your garment by pinning right side against right side (use your mounting notches, 2 front 1 on the back, and 1 notch for the sleeve head which responds to the shoulder seam). You will have 3 layers: facing, body fabric and sleeve. The finishes: Sew the hem of the bottom of your dress by making an invisible hem by hand or with your sewing machine. If you have chosen to sew a lining, make a hem that allows your lining to be a little shorter, this will prevent it from sticking out and showing. Congratulations, you can put on your dress Craie, button up your cuffs, and above all, enjoy!
