01 May 2019
The rustle blouse PANAMA
hello! it's a blouse version of the boss PANAMA that I'm offering you today. The particularity of the blouse version (besides the very nice back neckline) are the sleeves cuts. This cutout allows you to use a different fabric, to put piping or to insert a braid, but also to add elements like...ruffles!!! 
It's been a long time since I put frilly in my models, but I couldn't resist because the choice of the lace fabric gives too much of a side to the gathered ruffles. The ample cut with this so light fabric reminded me of Chloé blouses, a look a little bit bilitis accentuated by the transparency. This nice fabric comes from Pretty mercerie (tulle embroidered cotton). 
For the flywheels, I based myself on the size of the middle band, and I made 2 sizes of flywheels: first flywheel in front which is 1 1/2 times the band, and second flywheel (the furthest back) which is 2 times the length of the band. They are about 5 cm wide. I cut the tulle from the fabric with a chisel to bring out the embroideries and give relief to my flounces. The fitting of the blouse: 1/Bust upper part assembly Assemble your parts bust front and back place against place by the shoulders and sides. There is no lining: I wanted to preserve the transparency of the fabric and I cut a bias strip of the same fabric that I put on the neckline. 
2/the sleeves : The gathers On your machine, enlarge the stitch and release the thread tension as much as possible. Sew on the edge of your steering wheel a first pucker thread at 0.5 cm from the edge. Leave a good margin of unsewn thread to be able to handle it afterwards. Make a second line of pucker thread at 0.7 cm. Each ruffle is thus assembled on the back piece and the back piece right side against right side. I put a pucker thread on each ruffle. I pin the ends and the middle of the strips on the sleeve piece then I pucker by pulling on the bobbin thread. 
Then the assembly of the parts is carried out as described in the assembly instructions: Assemble the part right against left and right. back sleeve on the coin middle sleeve band. Finish your seam, and press right side out. Then assemble the piece front sleeve on your coin back to middle sleeveplace to place. Surf and iron. You've got your sleeve piece ready. Fold over on itself right sides together and sew to close the sleeve. Finish. 
Pin your sleeve to the bust armhole right side up, relying on the mounting notches (one notch for the sleeve head which responds to the shoulder seam, 2 notches in the front and 1 notch in the back). Finish your seam. 
3/ high bust and steering wheel assembly Sew the sides of the pieces right sides together. steering wheel front and back. Finish your seams. 
Pin your steering wheel on your bust right sides together: start by pinning the steering wheel according to the centre front and back markings and align the side seams of the chest and steering wheel. Pull on your gathers threads, and distribute your gathers, pin. Sew, and clean finish your seam. Fold down your steering wheel and iron well. For this step the fabric makes the thing not very visible you can find this step illustrated and which is identical on the tutorial of the top panama. 4/finishes Sew the bottom hem of your blouse, and the bottom sleeve hem. Here I have "opened" the ruffles before making the hem so that they are placed on the bottom sleeves. Iron your blouse well but leave your ruffles a little crazy. 
And here it is, a blouse PANAMA that gives wings! Find the boss of PANAMA hereIt's free until May 15th so take advantage of it! And you can participate to the contest I'm organizing on Instagram with Eglantine and Zoé, Froufrou Paris, Les coupons de Saint Pierre, Dutchlabel shop and Coudre et broder, to try to win a mountain of fabrics, the patterns of the new collection, a set of labels to be personalized to sign your sewings and a super Brother serger!!! terms and conditions described here! See you soon for the launch of the new collection which will finally be on May 10th! 
It's been a long time since I put frilly in my models, but I couldn't resist because the choice of the lace fabric gives too much of a side to the gathered ruffles. The ample cut with this so light fabric reminded me of Chloé blouses, a look a little bit bilitis accentuated by the transparency. This nice fabric comes from Pretty mercerie (tulle embroidered cotton). For the flywheels, I based myself on the size of the middle band, and I made 2 sizes of flywheels: first flywheel in front which is 1 1/2 times the band, and second flywheel (the furthest back) which is 2 times the length of the band. They are about 5 cm wide. I cut the tulle from the fabric with a chisel to bring out the embroideries and give relief to my flounces. The fitting of the blouse: 1/Bust upper part assembly Assemble your parts bust front and back place against place by the shoulders and sides. There is no lining: I wanted to preserve the transparency of the fabric and I cut a bias strip of the same fabric that I put on the neckline. 2/the sleeves : The gathers On your machine, enlarge the stitch and release the thread tension as much as possible. Sew on the edge of your steering wheel a first pucker thread at 0.5 cm from the edge. Leave a good margin of unsewn thread to be able to handle it afterwards. Make a second line of pucker thread at 0.7 cm. Each ruffle is thus assembled on the back piece and the back piece right side against right side. I put a pucker thread on each ruffle. I pin the ends and the middle of the strips on the sleeve piece then I pucker by pulling on the bobbin thread. Then the assembly of the parts is carried out as described in the assembly instructions: Assemble the part right against left and right. back sleeve on the coin middle sleeve band. Finish your seam, and press right side out. Then assemble the piece front sleeve on your coin back to middle sleeveplace to place. Surf and iron. You've got your sleeve piece ready. Fold over on itself right sides together and sew to close the sleeve. Finish. Pin your sleeve to the bust armhole right side up, relying on the mounting notches (one notch for the sleeve head which responds to the shoulder seam, 2 notches in the front and 1 notch in the back). Finish your seam. 3/ high bust and steering wheel assembly Sew the sides of the pieces right sides together. steering wheel front and back. Finish your seams. Pin your steering wheel on your bust right sides together: start by pinning the steering wheel according to the centre front and back markings and align the side seams of the chest and steering wheel. Pull on your gathers threads, and distribute your gathers, pin. Sew, and clean finish your seam. Fold down your steering wheel and iron well. For this step the fabric makes the thing not very visible you can find this step illustrated and which is identical on the tutorial of the top panama. 4/finishes Sew the bottom hem of your blouse, and the bottom sleeve hem. Here I have "opened" the ruffles before making the hem so that they are placed on the bottom sleeves. Iron your blouse well but leave your ruffles a little crazy. And here it is, a blouse PANAMA that gives wings! Find the boss of PANAMA hereIt's free until May 15th so take advantage of it! And you can participate to the contest I'm organizing on Instagram with Eglantine and Zoé, Froufrou Paris, Les coupons de Saint Pierre, Dutchlabel shop and Coudre et broder, to try to win a mountain of fabrics, the patterns of the new collection, a set of labels to be personalized to sign your sewings and a super Brother serger!!! terms and conditions described here! See you soon for the launch of the new collection which will finally be on May 10th!
