December 16, 2016
Dahlia and its claudine collar, the tuto!
hello! last day before the holidays (yoouuhhhhhhhhooouuuu) to celebrate that I propose you a small tutorial of patronage, the realization of a collar claudine or a flat collar, for your blouse Dahlia. The boss is perfect for it because it is already designed to support a collar (the pretty gathered collar with a collar stand, but it's good to vary the pleasures, isn't it?!). I chose to make a dress Dahlia with the sublime viscose of Wear lemonade (soft and easy to sew and this print!!!) and the collar is in luxury white crepe from Cousette (perfect because it doesn't wrinkle but can be ironed). I'll tell you how to make the collar on your boss board: come to put shoulder to shoulder your pieces bust in front and yoke back. 
On the back yoke piece, remove 3 cm as in the photo, then come and superimpose your shoulder lines according to this new mark. 
For the layout, I chose to make a single collar, so the middle front will be positioned at the fold. I drew a margin of 5 cm from my front middle to my back middle, and then I drew my roundness. I went down 2 cm vertically for the portion at the fold. 
Cut out your pattern and transfer it to your fabric, add the mid back seam allowance only. Cut in half.
Wrap what will be the top portion of your collar. 
Pin and assemble your collar pieces right sides together, leaving the entire neckline portion unstitched so that you can turn it inside out. Negotiate your rounding quietly (it's a bit like the jumpsuit Iris code, whose step-by-step is here). 
Remove excess seam allowances and corners. Turn over and iron well. The assembly of the collar: make your chest clips on the front bust piece. Come and do your seam inserts on the centre back line of your back yokes (the red line extends the pattern's reference notches, the edge of your finished back yoke will be according to this line), assemble the bust back and the back yokes with the edges of the yokes aligned with the reference notch in the middle of the back fold. Then assemble your bust in front and back yoke by the shoulders, right side against right side. 
Pin your collar upside down against your bust. Thread your seam allowance and press it towards the inside of your garment. Secure it with a 0.7 cm stitch, so that your seam allowance will not come out anymore. 
Bravo!!! you've got your Dahlia with a flat collar! 
For the dress version I simply lengthened the model by 40 cm, without modifying the side line but extending it, however I have little marked hips so see if you want to lengthen it. The flat fold of the back still gives ease at the bottom. 
I hope you will like this little tutorial, I apologize for the not always great quality of the pictures but I had to sew it at night and photos worn at the end of the day ... very happy holidays to all!
On the back yoke piece, remove 3 cm as in the photo, then come and superimpose your shoulder lines according to this new mark. For the layout, I chose to make a single collar, so the middle front will be positioned at the fold. I drew a margin of 5 cm from my front middle to my back middle, and then I drew my roundness. I went down 2 cm vertically for the portion at the fold. Cut out your pattern and transfer it to your fabric, add the mid back seam allowance only. Cut in half. Wrap what will be the top portion of your collar. Pin and assemble your collar pieces right sides together, leaving the entire neckline portion unstitched so that you can turn it inside out. Negotiate your rounding quietly (it's a bit like the jumpsuit Iris code, whose step-by-step is here). Remove excess seam allowances and corners. Turn over and iron well. The assembly of the collar: make your chest clips on the front bust piece. Come and do your seam inserts on the centre back line of your back yokes (the red line extends the pattern's reference notches, the edge of your finished back yoke will be according to this line), assemble the bust back and the back yokes with the edges of the yokes aligned with the reference notch in the middle of the back fold. Then assemble your bust in front and back yoke by the shoulders, right side against right side. Pin your collar upside down against your bust. Thread your seam allowance and press it towards the inside of your garment. Secure it with a 0.7 cm stitch, so that your seam allowance will not come out anymore. Bravo!!! you've got your Dahlia with a flat collar! For the dress version I simply lengthened the model by 40 cm, without modifying the side line but extending it, however I have little marked hips so see if you want to lengthen it. The flat fold of the back still gives ease at the bottom. I hope you will like this little tutorial, I apologize for the not always great quality of the pictures but I had to sew it at night and photos worn at the end of the day ... very happy holidays to all!
