How to shorten or lengthen a stocking pattern (pants, shorts and overalls)
If when reading the table of measurements attached to the pattern, your stature is different from the one indicated, then a modification of the length of the legs should be considered.
Basic equipment to perform a transformation
To transform a pattern, it is advisable to have :
A parrot rule
A graduated ruler
A support sheet
A pair of paper scissors
A fine point criterion/pencil
Method A Cut the pattern pieces in 2 or 3 and add/subtract the desired value between the different parts.
Depending on the size of the measurement to be subtracted or added, the pieces will not be modified at the same place. This way, the lines of the pattern will remain harmonious.
In all cases, method A is recommended in order not to modify the cut of the trousers.
For more details on this technique, please refer to the article entitled "Basic techniques for shortening or lengthening a pattern. »
Case of trousers
The difference in measurement is less than or equal to 2 cm
Draw a line perpendicular to the straight line on the front and back legs. Place it below the knee line. Mark this line preferably at exactly the same height on the front and back.
Cut on the line, then spread the pieces to lengthen the pattern or stack the pieces to shorten the pattern.
The difference in measurement is greater than 2 cm
Draw 2 axes perpendicular to the straight line on the front and back legs. Place the first below the knee line and the second above the knee line.
Place these lines preferably in exactly the same place on the front and back.
Cut along the lines, then spread the pieces apart to make the pattern longer or overlap the pieces to make the pattern shorter. Change each axis by half the total measurement.
Example: the pants must be lengthened by 5 cm. Add 2.5 cm above the knee line and 2.5 cm below the knee line.
Key point: It is important to check that the knee line is still positioned correctly. Place the paper pattern in front of your leg and visually check that the line is in the right place. If not, distribute the total measurement between the 2 axes differently.
Case of shorts or Bermuda shorts
Since shorts are by definition short, the measurement to be added or subtracted should not be extremely important. It is therefore sufficient to draw a single axis perpendicular to the thread-right before cutting the pieces and adding/subtracting the desired measurement.
Place this axis between the crotch point and the bottom line. Preferably mark it at exactly the same height on the front and back.
Example on the shorts Sailor
Method B Modify the bottom of the pieces in the continuity of the existing layout.
Depending on the cut of the pattern (straight, flared or narrowed/squeezed) and the desired transformation, it will be possible or not to modify the pieces from below, in the continuity of the already existing layout . It will depend on the case.
For more details on this method, please refer to the article entitled "Basic techniques for shortening or lengthening a pattern. »