How to adjust the height of a 2-piece suit or dress

If when reading the measurement chart attached to the pattern, your stature is different from the one indicated, then a modification of the garment length should be considered.
For more details on methods A and B mentioned below, please refer to the article entitled "Basic techniques for shortening or lengthening a pattern. »

Basic equipment to perform a transformation

To transform a pattern, it is advisable to have :

• Adhesive tape

• A parrot rule

• A square

• A graduated ruler

• A support sheet

• A pair of paper scissors

• A fine point criterion/pencil

 

For a combination

When a wetsuit does not fit, the model will be very uncomfortable. It will tend to be very tight or on the contrary to yawn at the crotch. There are several reasons for this.

First case

The fork is not high enough, the garment will tend to be tight.
The fork is too high, the garment will tend to yawn.

• Draw a line perpendicular to the straight line on the legs of the suit. Place it anywhere on the fork line, i.e. between the crotch point and the waist line.

• Cut on the line, then spread the pieces to enlarge the fork or overlap the pieces to shorten the fork.

Example on the pattern Eclipse, combination version

Second case

The bust is too short and the waistline too high. The garment will tend to be tight.
The bust is too long, the waist line too low. The garment will tend to yawn.

• Draw a line perpendicular to the straight thread and the front and back middles on the bodice part of the suit. Place it anywhere between the waist line and the underarm point. Mark this line preferably at the same height on the front and back.

• Cut on the line, then spread the pieces to increase the bust height or overlap the pieces to decrease the bust height.

Example on the pattern Eclipse, combination version

Consequences:
Whichever part is changed:

• If the height is increased, the pants will be longer.

• If the height is lowered, the pants will be shorter.

You should therefore consider altering the length of the leg if it seems necessary. Please refer to the article "How to shorten or lengthen a stocking pattern".

For a dress

Unlike a jumpsuit, a dress will remain comfortable despite some modifications. The main problems encountered are therefore visual.

First case

The skirt part is too short or too long.
Use the method of your choice:

• Cut the pieces in 2 and add/subtract the desired value between these 2 parts (method A)

• Extend/shorten the bottom in the continuity of the existing line (method B).

Example on the pattern Eclipse, dress version 

Second case

The waist is visually too high or too low.
The bust part must be modified in the same way as for the suit (second case).
Be careful, because a change in the bust also affects the length of the dress:

• If the bust height is increased, the dress will be longer.

• If the bust height is lowered, the dress will be shorter.

It will be necessary to consider also touching up the length of the skirt if it seems necessary.