27 May 2018
Bloom le tuto!
Good morning! How about a step-by-step guide to get the week off to a good start? So welcome here, I suggest you to take with you in pictures the steps of assembling the Bloom gown/shirt. This is a blouse version that I will sew, but the principle is absolutely the same as for the dress version. This blouse version is very classic, sewn in a nice striped cotton, perfect for summer and very versatile. 
And since I'm a player, I alternate the direction of the stripes to bring out the back yoke. Yeah,I know,"but what crazy!!!!!." The length of the blouse allows you to tuck it into your pants, so here I chose to wear my pants Embrun and I think tying the top is more fun. 
With those kind words, hold on to your machines, here's the step-by-step: as a preamble, my choice of fabric means I didn't canvas my pieces. If you choose a lighter or "soft" fabric, you will have to thermo glue your neck and back flaps, as well as your armhole cleanliness. And sew a fabric that marks with an iron, it will make your work easier and you will have more beautiful festoons, which is the real delicate point of the pattern but also what makes it so pretty ;)
Return to the right side (visible facing inside your dress) and iron well. Make the hem of your dress / blouse. Here I show you a very discreet hem and especially practical to manage the rounded bottom of the garment: stitch a first fold of 0.5 cm, then by ironing fold well by 0.5 cm using your first seam. On the wrong side you have 2 seams and on the right side only one. 
Just like for the back bib, draw the outline of the future seam all along the front of your festoons on the cleanliness of the front, using a suit at craie or erasable felt pen. Finish the outside of your assembled armhole cleanliness.
To attach your siding / cleanliness: stitch along the shoulder seam to assemble the garment with the siding / cleanliness (your stitch is confused with the shoulder seam and will not show). Do the same with the underarm seam. And in order to prevent your clean armhole from moving, I advise you to fix it with an invisible stitch by hand. Also, stitch the back seam allowance to 0.5 cm with your back facing so that it does not move and does not come out. 
Now all you have to do is make your buttonholes and sew your prettiest buttons. Put on your pretty Bloom, for a summer that sings with little tunes of Dolce Vita, because you are irresistible! 
And since I'm a player, I alternate the direction of the stripes to bring out the back yoke. Yeah,I know,"but what crazy!!!!!." The length of the blouse allows you to tuck it into your pants, so here I chose to wear my pants Embrun and I think tying the top is more fun. With those kind words, hold on to your machines, here's the step-by-step: as a preamble, my choice of fabric means I didn't canvas my pieces. If you choose a lighter or "soft" fabric, you will have to thermo glue your neck and back flaps, as well as your armhole cleanliness. And sew a fabric that marks with an iron, it will make your work easier and you will have more beautiful festoons, which is the real delicate point of the pattern but also what makes it so pretty ;)
- The realization of the breast clips on the front piece : pin after matching the mounting notches. Don't hesitate to trace the sewing area with a craie tailor's marker or an erasable marker such as Pilot frixion (erases with an iron!!!) or you can build it with a wide stitch, sew from the edge of the garment and finish well the tip of your pincer by dying along the line on the last 2 points. Iron your pliers downwards.
- The double front and back darts: after having transferred your markings on your fabric, fold your fabric right side against right side according to the central line of the dart. Start from the top of the clip, and follow the contour, finish by several points in the void and make a small knot.
- Preparation of the back bib: on theback of your bib facing, draw the line of the future seam along the entire length of your festoons with the suit at craie or with erasable felt pen. Surfacing the top of the siding.
- Place your bib facing right side up on your bib, sew your festoons. Stitch your festoons. Clean out your corners, turn and iron by taking out your festoons with a round-tipped instrument to shape them nicely. Do not hesitate to crush the fabric in the festoons by rolling it between your fingers, you will obtain more beautiful rounded edges.
- Assemble your bib on the back piece, back to back with the bib turned right side up, sewing the sides, armholes and neckline (stitch inside the seam allowance, so when you assemble your garment this seam will be invisible).
- Assembly of the dress / blouse: assemble your front and back right sides together by the shoulders and sides. Finish your seams.
- Assemble your pieces facing front and back right sides together. Surfacing all the way around the "outside" of your siding. Position the facing right sides together on the garment, using the markings (middle back, shoulder seam that corresponds to the front and back facing seam). Sew, notch your rounded edges and clear the angle of the neckline.
Return to the right side (visible facing inside your dress) and iron well. Make the hem of your dress / blouse. Here I show you a very discreet hem and especially practical to manage the rounded bottom of the garment: stitch a first fold of 0.5 cm, then by ironing fold well by 0.5 cm using your first seam. On the wrong side you have 2 seams and on the right side only one.
- The armholes: assemble your clean armholes front and back side to side (do not forget to mark the top and bottom of your parts).
Just like for the back bib, draw the outline of the future seam all along the front of your festoons on the cleanliness of the front, using a suit at craie or erasable felt pen. Finish the outside of your assembled armhole cleanliness.
- Place your cleanliness on your armhole place against place and sew while respecting well the line of the festoons. Clip your rounded edges, clear your corners, turn and iron by taking out your festoons with a round-tipped instrument to shape them nicely.
To attach your siding / cleanliness: stitch along the shoulder seam to assemble the garment with the siding / cleanliness (your stitch is confused with the shoulder seam and will not show). Do the same with the underarm seam. And in order to prevent your clean armhole from moving, I advise you to fix it with an invisible stitch by hand. Also, stitch the back seam allowance to 0.5 cm with your back facing so that it does not move and does not come out. Now all you have to do is make your buttonholes and sew your prettiest buttons. Put on your pretty Bloom, for a summer that sings with little tunes of Dolce Vita, because you are irresistible!
