La vie en rouge... the blouse Sybil and its tutorial.
As the new collection has been graded, I have a little time to offer you a new assembly tutorial: the pattern Sybil blouse and yoke version. The yoke version is the most delicate, already in the preparation because there are many curves and you will have to be precise when cutting and interfacing your yokes.
I chose for this version a fabric from Pretty mercerie. It has a very nice print, the color is bright and the slightly crumpled effect is really nice. On the other hand, it is synthetic and does not mark very much with the iron, and its ironing requires delicacy which complicated a little the thermo sticky interlining. It is also a thin fabric and slippery, so it is recommended for simple projects or if you are already familiar with your model.
I chose to make the tutorial on this version of the pattern because I had several messages telling me of difficulties when assembling the fabric bust / lining bust. You have to see that this type of assembly of yoke in "inlay" requires to assemble the roundings that will conflict during the pinning to fit perfectly when you turn your work on the right side. It is the precise and error-free assembly of your fabric bust that will allow you to perfectly overlap with the lining. And the dimensions are identical, so be careful if the fabric and the lining don't match, it's because you've made a small mistake beforehand (slight modification of the fabric dimension when ironing, small shift when sewing the yokes and these few mm have an effect on the total height of the bust...). The patterns Maison Fauve are digitized and graded by a model maker using Lectra, which means that the dimensions of the various parts and the matching of the assembly notches are checked by computer. And the tests are done when the grading is done, so the pattern is validated again ;)
Come on, get out your pins, your scissors, let's go!
- Realization of the breast darts on the front bust pieces.
Pin after matching the assembly notches. Feel free to trace the seam area with a craie or a Pilot frixion type erasable marker (erases with an iron stroke!!!) or you can build it up with a large stitch, sew from the edge of the garment and finish off the tip of your clip well by dying along the line on the last 2 stitches. Iron your darts downwards. Do the same for the breast darts on the lining.
- Bust and yoke assembly: your pattern has markings so you don't make mistakes when assembling the yokes on the bust. Indeed during the assembly of these parts the roundings are opposed, it is at the time when one deploys the parts after the seam that the curvatures are defined.
For the left front bust: pin the bust and the yoke right sides together, matching the A notches. Sew, turn over and press well.
For the right front bust: pin the bust and the yoke right sides together, matching the D notches. Sew, turn over and press well.
For the back bust: pin the bust and the yoke right sides together, matching the E notches. Sew, turn over and press well.
- Bust assembly: Join right sides together with the front right and left bust pieces and the back bust piece through the shoulders.
- Place the bust on the lining with right sides together and pin all the way around the neckline: from the bottom of the right front piece, up the neckline, along the back neckline and back down to the left front piece. Use the notches (C for the right front, B for the left front and the middle notch at the fold for the back). Stop at the left neckline without going down the left side. Clip the points of your cut-outs and all your roundings and reduce your seam allowances. Turn your work right side out. Iron to define your roundings and the right bust angle.
NB: if you want to close your blouse with small ties you will have to position them at this stage, sandwiching them between the edge of the lining and the fabric of the right front).
To make your work easier you can stabilize the fabric/lining assembly by stitching them in the seam allowance. Pin your sides right sides together, sandwiching the right front side between the back side and the left front edge, so when you turn over the right front will cross in front of the left front. Finish your side seams.
- Iron your work well so that your front and back necklines are well defined. You get your blouse with the lining side against your body and the fabric side visible.
- Pin the bottom of your bust pieces on the right side, and stitch at 0.5 cm (so in the seam allowance): the goal is to secure them before assembling with the skirt part, it will make this step easier.
- The "skirt" part: your skirt part is presented as a "skirt" for the blouse, or as a "skirt" for the dress.
- Skirt and bust assembly: start by gathering the top of your skirt. You will be sewing 2 rows of gathering thread, to do this lower the thread tension as much as possible and set your machine to wide stitches. Make a first seam 0.4 mm from the edge all along your waist, and leave the thread a little long before cutting it at the end of the seam. Do the same at 0.8 mm from the edge.
- Place your skirt on one side of your bust right sides together, and start by pinning the remarkable points (the front and back middles, the side seams of the bust which correspond to the side seam of the skirt). Pull gently on both ends of the thread, your fabric will gather along the thread. Spread your gathers harmoniously over the whole length and pin.
- Sew your skirt to your bust taking care not to crush your gathers(make sure you have set your machine to the normal tension and stitch length settings). Finish your seam.
- Your garment now looks like a sleeveless blouse with a lined bust, fabric and lining joined at the neckline and waist. Build your fabric and lining armholes together, back to back, by stitching inside the seam allowance (0.5 cm). This will make it easier to assemble the sleeve.
- Close your sleeve by sewing the side seam right sides together. Topstitch.
Pin your sleeve to your garment with right sides together (make sure you use your notches, 2 notches on the front, 1 notch on the back, and 1 notch for the sleeve head that meets the shoulder seam). Finish your seam.
Finishing touches: hem the bottom of your dress/top and the sleeves. Sew your 3 pretty buttons on the left bust.
I hope this photo step by step will help you to assemble your beautiful Sybil. I can't wait to see your versions!